Would you like to become a pergola builder? While it’s not easy, we believe you can get there if you follow this guide. Few backyard upgrades provide the same level of functional value and architectural flair as a pergola. Usually made out of timber, a pergola is an outdoor structure for your backyard with vertical columns and posts that support a roof on top. You can use it to frame an outdoor dining area or to define a cozy patio lounge; the ideas are endless.
While high-end contractors can easily run you up a good sum, if you get services from a reputable and reasonable contractor like M2 Building Pros, you can get a sweet deal. If you are an intermediate DIYer and have confidence in your abilities, then this guide is made for you.
So without further ado, let’s get right in!
How to become a pergola builder?
There is some prep work you need to take care of to avoid structural failure and municipal fines. So, before you get to digging post holes and cutting lumber, let’s get them out of the way.
- Planning & Utility Checks
Some height restrictions and setback requirements can only be learned about and cleared by asking your building department for verification. You can always call 811 or your local utility location service and ask to help you figure out where underground electric, gas, and water lines run. A pergola contractor checks these things for you before getting started.
- Lumber Selection
Lumber selection is important. Choose water-resistant wood rated specifically for ground contact. The most affordable option is pressure-treated Pine. It requires drying time before you can paint it. Another option is Cedar or Redwood. This type of wood has better grain and looks aged. It resists rot naturally, so you don’t have to worry about that, but it is costly.
- Hardware List
- Post brackets
- Fast-setting concrete (3 to 4 bags per hole)
- Galvanized or structural timber screws
- Stainless steel or galvanized carriage bolts (½ inch diameter & 8 inches long)
- Joist hangers or structural rafter clips
Layout & Post Hole Foundation
For a well-supported structural frame, a square foundation is essential. Decide on a perimeter for your posts. You can do a 10’ x 10’ or a 12’ x 12’ perimeter. Set up batter boards outside your intended perimeter and run mason line string to mark the outer edge of your posts.
You need to dig post holes 36 to 48 inches deep below your region’s frost line. Make it 12 inches wide. Here, you have to add 4 inches of compacted gravel to the bottom of each hole to support easy drainage. Position 6 x 6 posts into the holes. You can use diagonal braces to lock each post plumb in two directions using a post level. This can help you align the posts properly. Now start pouring fast-setting concrete into the hole and add water as per the instructions on the concrete packaging. Allow the concrete to set and cure for 24 to 48 hours.
Try not to move the posts before the above-mentioned time so the concrete doesn’t develop cracks.
Support Beam Installation
Things are getting slightly more complicated for a custom pergola builder like you, but you can do it. Support beams bear the weight of the entire roof. Keeping that in mind, use a water level or laser level across all 4 posts to mark top beam heights. 8 to 9 feet of clearance is good, but you can adjust accordingly.
Notching vs Sandwiching
You have a choice here. Two options:
- Notching
You can notch the 6 x 6 post so the beam can rest directly on the wood shoulder for maximum load capacity
Or
- Sandwiching
Bolt a 2 x 8 or a 2 x 10 beam to both sides of the 6 x 6 post using two ½” x 8” carriage bolts per joint.
Both options are just fine. It depends on what you are looking to get out of your pergola. Notching is better for direct downward load-bearing and a clean aesthetic. Sandwiching is generally easier to install and gives you double-sided load distribution.
Cutting and Placing Rafters
Becoming a pergola expert demands that your rafters run perpendicular to support beams, crucial for structural shade. 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 rafters are spaced 12 to 16 inches apart perpendicularly. Then you need to cut shallow notches into the underside of each rafter so they can sit flush. Once done, fasten securely using rafter clips and structural screws.
Top Purlins
Purlins run perpendicular across the top of the rafters to create the shade grid. They are spaced 6 to 12 inches apart. You can use exterior deck screws to screw them down at every rafter intersection.
Finishing and Protection
We are almost done, so hang in there. You may notice rough edges, but they can be smoothed out using sandpaper. If you are using fresh, pressure-treated wood, allow 2 to 6 weeks for the wood to dry out. You will know it’s done when water beads stop forming on the surface.
Use a high-quality semi-transparent exterior stain to protect your wood against UV rays, moisture damage, and rot. You can reapply stain every 2 to 3 years to give it a fresh new look.
Conclusion
Building your own pergola could be one of the most rewarding outdoor DIY projects you start. It completely revamps the look of your garden or backyard. Gives you a nice place to rest or eat, and look out into the sunset. Now that you have a clear roadmap of how to become a pergola builder, you are all set to start. However, we do recommend a second opinion or expert help from reputable builders like M2 Building Pros.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a permit to build a pergola?
Usually no for small structures, but it’s a good idea to check codes.
Which wood is best for a pergola?
Cedar or redwood.
How long does it take to build a pergola?
1 to 2 weekends if two people are working on it.